Once again during Paris Men’s Fashion Week, 22 -26 June, Tranoï hosts the Men’s Spring/Summer 2017 Men and Women’s preview collections, Perfumes, (Perfumes), and an added enhanced installation of lifestyle Designs – where art and fashion intersect. For a second season the installation events are held at the Cité de la Mode et du Design at the address Quai Austerlitz, and as customary, at the Palace de Brogniart, the Bourse.
A strict selection of 300 international contemporary and avant-garde men’s and women’s wear designers representing 34 countries present their 2017 spring/summer preview collections in ready-to wear, footwear, leather, jewelry and accessories. Since the fashionistas well-cover the fashion, I habitually select first-time presenters at the Tranoï trade show installation events. This time my focus is on six presenters at the Bourse. There will be more about the Cité de la Mode et du Design later.
Interestingly, the Bourse hosted about 30% first-time presenters. I enjoyed so much spending time with the presenters. I introduce with pleasure the following who showcased their 2017 Spring/Summer collections.
Shown is a limited edition piece encased in a wood box made by the cigar box makers before cigar boxes ceased to exist. It is an effective idea to re-purpose skills and provide opportunities for renewed life.
Truly exuberant about his collection, I could feel the humor in his spirit and joy in his works as Detlef Block of München (Munich) explained the first International Launch of 8and7, Infinity eternal 8 and holy 7. He explained that the eternal 8 stands for wholeness, integrity, and endurance – the infinite. The number 7 – also known as ‘holy seven’ or ‘lucky seven’ – is considered a magical number, particularly in the West. It stands for happiness and good fortune. Each of my pieces thus becomes a talisman – even a lucky charm.
From his website, “Especially close to my heart is the ‘Father to Son’ theme, which for me brings back memories of Cat Stevens songs. My pieces recall the deep and eternal bond between father and child, for example wearing an identical armband or a matching pendant on a handmade chain, which symbolize this essential connection.” There are in his collection, if you look on the site, father/son surfer bracelets. Cool, for the LA surfing fans.
Detlef further explains that stones – with their intrinsic properties – also are important in his collection, as they can have significantly favorable effects on energy levels, general sense of internal peace, well-being and overall health, depending on their particular compositions. And, why not ? We all are of elemental earthly compositions, especially at the micro/mineral elemental levels.
Have a look at the website, as the stones and the beautiful silver work is more clear.
The silverwork is beautiful. The combination of heavy silver pieces and leather lends a medieval feel to the designs, yet there is also the perception and the feeling of light-heartedness in this men’s wear. A clear balance is evident between the sort of medieval look of heavy stones and sculpted silver and leather, due to the intention of the contemporary offer of lightness and symbols being in alignment with essential emotions. Even the skulls wink in jest 😉 It is clear that peace, joy and well-being are the offerings of this collection.
A ring engraved with “men don’t dance” humorously explains a line from Red River in which when approached by a saloon server inviting a dance, John Wayne says, as he instructs in this quote… “Talk low, talk slow, and don’t say too much.”
~ John Wayne [1907 – 1979] … listen for his voice and actually, you can hear this:
“… Lady, men don’t dance.”
Then there is the clever and interesting approach to classic quality and zeitgeist by Jelmano Day G. Yoon, who left his home country of China to seize the day, studying fashion in Milan and changing his already established career.
“The shoe that fits one person pinches another; there is no recipe for living that suits all cases.”~ Carl Jung [1875 – 1961]
Jimibek #1 is to stay fit, and Jelmano Day G. Yoon has done just that by opening his world to train in high fashion for nearly a decade before presenting his own collection. His brand name Jimibek is inspired also by ancient Chinese classic literature from Chinese people espousing centrality and commonality – « ji mi » the wise person who knows the taste of the moment – and realises the brevity of the now enough to embrace it with enthusiasm. Within the wisdoms of the ancient traditions lie the anchor of quality in knowing, feeling and experiencing.
His collection is inspired by the desire to remain true to the time-honored tradition of fine Italian craftsmanship renowned in leathers and especially in shoes and bags. The idea is to fully engage in present-time action-oriented opportunities for each and every moment of daily life and fully present zeitgiest – engaging comfortably and elegantly in the ambiance and tendencies of the times in the now.
Mother and son team of Scognamiglio Gioielli represents the jewelry brand that was born of the creative flair of Aniello Scognamiglio, goldsmith by passion, and merged with the skills of the family tradition in coral and cameo in the city of Torre del Greek.
His hand-made collections are the symbol of Made in Italy, both for precision in creation and high quality due to the careful selection of raw materials, whether they be silver, gold, pearls, diamonds, cameo or coral.
the story of the coral also tells the story of a people of sailors, that of Torre del Greek, which from 1400 has marked its existence with every event linked to the best fruit of the sea, as the Greeks and Romans lived it. The Scognamiglio collections remake the classic with a modern twist, resulting in unique, romantic and timeless jewelry.
In its precision and handcrafted tradition, the company’s strength is to service the unique preferences of its clientele, customizing by designing with selected combinations of jewels, elements and forms to suit any customer.
Inspiration by colour, form, flavour, even? Be sure to check the website to have a better look at jewelry selections.
Classic materials such as precious turquoise, amber, Bakelite, ivory, engravings in lava stones, corals, crystals or shells mounted in gold, represent Vesuvius, or other glimpses of nature: epic histories, mythological gods, and allegorical characters. Portraits and scenes of rural landscapes reminisce fragments of biblical and evangelical times.
“You can’t invent quality, it is something you reach after many years of experience. Knitwear will always be a big handicraft and never an industry.” The legacy is based on the intuition of Erminio Vavassori and Rosa Frigerio, who were inspired to open a small knitwear shop in 1962. Their life and destiny changed, and so did that of their sons. They quickly found themselves running a large knitwear production.
Those were years of commitment. Efforts led to the 2004 generational hand-over when Gianluigi Vavassori, Creative Director and Founder, and his brother Roberto started running the company. They decided to focus on male fashion production and to showcase “Made in Italy” tailoring based on their solid experience in the textile industry.
“We then started a partnership with Paolo Pechora to launch the brand OBVIOUS BASIC “by Paolo Pecora” as a integrated collection. It is a modern line with modern, eclectic and eccentric items. The character and personality of the style became so strong that the autonomous brand’s first independent collection of OBVIOUS BASIC was winter of 2013. I believe in exciting male fashion. My commitment is to offer a smart, casual look, where irony is always a key player in daily life.”
Artem Shumov is not from a family of time-honored tradition in fashion, or if he is, he did not mention it. He is young, and is a winner of several international design awards. He participates in International Fashion Week AFW Russia.His experience includes work with Tatyana Parfionova, Lilia Kisselenko and Vika Gazinskaya. In 2012, the American designer Thom Browne inspired Artem to create his own label after seeing Shumov’s drafts for the men’s line. Artem Shumov is presented at Bolshoi 84, PLOHOI Concept Store, JNBY and Cultsome.
The yellow is a jumpsuit in a viscose, and the blue are pants. Artem’s colours, fabrics and designs are unique and compelling.
From viscose he gravitates to fine soft silks, here in subtle cuts, unisex designs and natural, subdued earth tones. The darker grey is a jumpsuit with no sleeves, and the beige are pants, designed for men, yet the model commented to me that she has tried them and would be quite comfortable wearing them.
Artem commented to me that he had worked with leather and he no longer does so. The finesse of the softer designs is as gentle, soft and sweet as these colours themselves.
And remember…“You can never be overdressed or overeducated.”
~ Oscar Wilde [1854 – 1900]